Burrowing Owl Cabernet Franc 2019 – Elegant, Earthy and Nicely Aged

Cabernet Franc is one of those grapes that can be very different depending on where it is grown.

In the Okanagan, it can produce wines with beautiful freshness, red fruit and savoury herbal character, while still having enough structure to age well.

The Burrowing Owl Cabernet Franc 2019 is a lovely example.

I tasted this wine after several years in the bottle, and what stood out immediately was how nicely it had developed.

It wasn't trying to be a powerful, fruit-driven red. Instead, it was delicate, earthy and elegant.

A beautiful earthy nose

The nose is the first thing that caught my attention.

Beautiful.

There is an earthy character that immediately gives the wine a sense of place and maturity.

Underneath are delicate aromas of cherry, herbs and spices.

The fruit is present, but it doesn't dominate.

There is something almost quiet about the wine.

It doesn't jump out of the glass. You have to pay attention.

That is exactly what I enjoy in a mature Cabernet Franc.

The 2019 was made from grapes grown in Burrowing Owl's vineyards in Oliver and Osoyoos.

The wine was aged for 15 months in a combination of French, Hungarian and American oak, with 28% new oak.

The oak has now integrated nicely, allowing the fruit and earthy character to take centre stage.

Freshness and balance

On the palate, the wine is beautifully balanced.

The acidity is still lively, giving the wine freshness without making it sharp.

There is a modest structure rather than the powerful tannic frame you sometimes find in Cabernet Franc.

Cherry is the main fruit character, joined by dried herbs and gentle spice.

The wine feels mature, but not tired.

That is an important distinction.

After several years in the bottle, the fruit has softened and the different components have come together.

The result is a wine that feels comfortable in its skin.

It is not a blockbuster.

And I don't think it needs to be.

A wine for food

This is exactly the kind of red wine I want with food.

I tasted it with mushroom toast, and the combination was beautiful.

The earthy character of the mushrooms echoed the wine perfectly.

The acidity kept the pairing fresh, while the delicate fruit and herbs added another layer to the dish.

It reminded me that Cabernet Franc doesn't always need a big steak to work.

Earthy vegetables, mushrooms, herbs and roasted dishes can be just as good.

The wine would also work beautifully with roast lamb, pork, grilled vegetables or dishes with forest mushrooms.

My verdict

The Burrowing Owl Cabernet Franc 2019 is not a wine that tries to impress you with power.

It wins you over with elegance.

Beautiful earthy nose. Delicate cherry. Herbs and spices.

Good acidity. Modest but well-balanced structure.

And, most importantly, it is nicely aged.

I scored 86/100.

For me, the mushroom toast was the highlight.

This is a wine that really comes alive at the table.

Sometimes maturity is not about becoming bigger or more powerful.

It is about everything becoming a little softer, more integrated and more interesting.

That is what I found in this Cabernet Franc.

See also: okanagan grapes

See also: Oliver BC wine region

See also: Burrowing Owl Estate Winery